Stonehenge Rocks!

The last day of our vacation we went on a road trip to Stonehenge and Bath. Wow, talk about saving the best for last. We got up at the crack o'dawn, and hit the road with our rather flamboyant, albeit knowledgeable, tour guide Mel. It was very, very cold when we arrived. The wind was blowing fiercely and if the skies were to open up, it would have been snow. The good news about Stonehenge is that you have plenty of room to navigate around the tourists who don't care if you are standing still in your zone, they will push you out of the way to get their "once in a lifetime" picture. The bad news is that you are so far away from the stones, you can't see any detail, or feel any energy. It was still a very interesting place, and the vibe it gave off was amazing. You couldn't help but respect it, the ancient power and years of wonderment where people stood in awe. Of course I was swept up in the history of it all, and also how far we were from the stones that were used to construct the great monument.

Next, we hopped in the bus and headed off to Bath. I could stay a week in this town, there is so much to see and do. We heard the legends of the town (city of pigs, 3 tiered cake, the Georgian city).

Here is a synopsis: City of Pigs: There was a prince who had leprosy and was banished from the kingdom by his father, the King. He ended up near Bath and bought pigs to sell for a living. The pigs ended up getting leprosy too! As he traveled through Bath, the pigs enjoyed the mud and water made by the sulfer springs. Eventually he noticed their skin healed, so he bathed in the water as well. He was healed and his father took him back into his kingdom, where he eventually became king. He founded the city of Bath to commemorate his healing.

3 Tiered Cake- the city was built on 3 layers. The first layer was built by the Romans, second by the monks of the Abbey and the third was the current day, built by the Georgians.

Georgian City- it has amazing architecture built during the revitalization period driven by the Kings George (I-III). It has Palladian, Neo-classical and Georgian architecture. Some of the buildings were built in a crescent shape and there is one street, built by Masons, that is in the shape of a key.

The crappy part about tours is that they set your time schedule for the day. That is the main reason why I do not go on them. However, the only way to get to Stonehenge (other than by renting a car), is through a tour. So, I had to roll with it. We had two hours in bath. Ready...set...go...

We ran through the Roman Baths- there is a lot to see. I photographed everything, so I could look at the pictures later. It was pretty neat- the hot room, the cold room, etc. I can see how the Finlanders in MN came up with taking a sauna and then jumping in water (or the snow, as I used to do in college). It really does feel awesome to sit in heat and I could do it for hours. We spent about 1 hour touring the baths. Then we ran over to the Bath Abbey, where the first King of England was crowned. It was of course a Gothic church and it reminded me a little of Westminister. In all the churches I visited (and there were about 14), I lit a candle, and took pictures.

For the a 360 degree tour- click here Bath Abbey Tour

Since it was 3 PM and we hadn't eaten lunch, we grabbed a quick pasty and walked to a really old marketplace, Bath Guildhall. This shopping venue has been in existence since the 16th century. Now it functions a part tourist trap, part functional shopping arena. You could get your picture taken with the Queen at the tea shop or buy a hammer from the hardware store. Next we skirted around the edge of town, found a loo and got back on the bus. My only regret is that we didn't have time to pop into Jane Austen's house. That would have been the final dollap of whip creamed awesomeness on this 3 tiered cake city.

I took pictures of the countryside all the way there and partially on the way back. It reminded me a little of my homestate MN, with flat farms and pastures. However, the old barns and homes were very much English. I could see myself living in the English countryside; but I don't know how they make any money. Plus I don't think I could eat any of the pigs or sheep that were common. That would be a big ewe (pun intended).

Churchill's bunker

We went to Churchill's war museum and bunker today. It was a pleasant surprise, we ended up spending about 4 hours  in the bunker/museum.   They had closed the war room bunker about 3 weeks after the war, and it was left intact until it was reopened years later. There was a ration of sugar found in an envelope in a drawer-they reopened and displayed it in the exhibits.  There were lots of pesonal stories and artifacts from the war. It was really cool to see the progression of events. I also learned that he could be a real jerk, and that he consistently ate 3 meals a day, even though there was food rationing. I also learned a ton about Churchill's past, before WWII. He was very much a part of British history for atleast 75 years. We ended the day at the London museum.  It was geared more for kids; but we did see an old Roman wall, i.e. the London Wall. Next to the wall we saw an officer working/playing with his German Shepard.  That was pretty cool to see him run the dog through his paces using a tennis ball. It was raining most of the day, so we took our time going to these places and we didn't do any neighborhood walking.  Trolling along side streets is the best way to see unexpected sites and events. Since we sat in a pub and ate fish and chips for a late lunch- I am getting take away for dinner. Probably soup, to chase away the chills. It was 45 degrees here today.

A look at the loo OR Looky loo

We take a break from our vacation to address the loo. This last hotel we are staying in  is extremely upgraded. This trip has actually been done on a relative budget. All the places we have stayed at have been a jumbled use of points from various sources. We are staying at a Hyatt in downtown London, and it took two weeks of "hotel" points for four days. Using points overseas is not as easy as in the US. There are not a lot of places here that accept points from US hotels, only the big chains. So the last leg we swanked out. Our check in yesterday was done via ipad, no desks. We had tea while we waited, earl grey! The same guy who checked us in walked us up to the room and gave us a five minute tour of our room. We have unlimited access to a well stocked mini bar, robes, slippers, bose stereo, lighted closets and three outlets (for those of you who travel overseas, you can appreciate this). The bathroom is ginormous. I took a bath and I had to extend my toes to reach the other end. For you tall people, this is a once in a lifetime deal. I have to fold in half to fit into my tub at home. We have various upscale lotions, soaps and smelly, bubbly gels. The best is the towel warmer. This loo is luxurious.  Oh and the sheets are 3000 pt, or something like that. Soft and substantial. I do no want to leave this room, ever...

The Louvre

The entire day was spent getting lost, unlost and then lost again in the Louvre.  While that may sound hopelessly cultured and romantic, it is annoying if you have sore feet and have destination plans. Every day I think my feet can't get any more sore, yesterday takes the cake (note still fixated on Marie Antoinette).  However we saw every nook of the Egyptian exhibits,  including Napoleon's special exhibit and coptic Egypt. We also saw most of Greece and Rome, plus Medieval and Renaissance sculpture and tapestries. We also saw the obligatory art, Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. Yvonne notes that the Mona Lisa looks like she follows you with her eyes no matter where you stand. So of course we did each side and the front, it is true. It was also nice that we got there early enough to do that. We also saw some very cool Italian paintings,  and my personal favorite- art from church panels and ceilings. I take back all of the assailing comments I made about the British museum and theft. The French have them beat, hands down. I think they had ten times the amount of Egyptian artifacts, just not as many Mummies. Yesterday being Mother's day and all, we paid homage to the lone Mummy and moved on. We spent seven hours in the Louvre,  five of them limping like Quasimodo. While taking detours in the vast  corridors,  it was also interesting to look at the formed palace decor and ceilings.  The museum,  that in itself, is a piece of art.

Notre Dame and Crypts

Who likes churches? We went to three churches, one was a neighborhood church by accident,  the second was St Chapelle,  one of the oldest medieval churches in Paris, and of course Notre Dame. We went to the ND treasury and saw the reliquary that held the crown of thorns. Of course you couldn't see anything. We also went to the Conciergery, where Marie Antoinette was held before she was beheaded. It was the seat of the old French gov (before Versailles) and was used as a prison during the French Revolution.   Below are pics that include a stained glass window from St. Chapelle. One is of ND, and the other was from old Roman crypts underneath ND. The Romans built Paris before it was Paris...called Lutetia, around 27 BC to 47 AD. Pretty cool, and often missed because people don't think to visit crypts. I love that stuff. No rats, spiders or dead things involved.

Versailles

Yesterday was dedicated entirely to Versailles. We saw the apartments of the family and the mini palaces that the king and queen would use when they were overwhelmed with the court. And of course Marie Antoinette's "play village", her hamlet. I love the garden's the most. 47 hectares of statued, tree lined passages to little hidden fountains or mazes. I can't get over the decadent, enormity of this palace. And we only saw a quarter of the property. The entire French government was housed out here, over 4, 000 workers and courtiers. Add to that unrestrained opulence,  and you get a recipe for a revolution.  Yep, Louis and Marie were taken from Versailles and later beheaded. "Let the eat cake" will get you in trouble every time. Bon Appetit!

Paris...oui is not as easy as you think

Whew, transition days are hard. Arrived in Paris, got my suitcase stuck in a subway turnstile,  it was really jammed in there. Smashed my hand getting it out, which didn't help my mood. Then we went the wrong way out of the terminal (not my fault, btw), and finally got to the hotel. After a late lunch, we went to the Eiffel Tower and had cafe crema and crepes in a quaint street cafe. So far I have determined that London is cleaner, safer and much friendlier than Paris. There are so many homeless people here, and that is sad. The subway is filthy and harder to navigate. I remember being here six years ago and it was the same way. It is pathetic that a country of this size and stature can't do more. Tomorrow we will see where some of that attitude may have originated,  Versailles.  The famous line from Marie Antoinette is...let them eat cake. I think that undercurrent is still prevalent today.

St. Paul's for a day

Today we started later, 9 am (to many that is still early) and we landed at St Paul's cathedral at around 11. It is much more regal than Westminster Abbey,  as you aren't tripping over tombs piled on top of each other.  It has very ornate ceilings and more modern architecture than Westminster.  I liked it in a different way, much as one can like Nordstrom AND Macy's, they just serve different purposes. The best part about today is that we hung out for midday services, which were quite regal. Thirty minutes of Anglican liturgy is like drinking Red Bull, you get twice the punch-british accent PLUS a prayer theme and service dedication to a 14th century female mystic named Julian. Yep, we are still praying for her 700 years later. I hope she finally made it to heaven. We ate in the chapel cafe, as I like to spend as much as I can at historic places, hoping the money goes toward refurbishment.  The menu selections were extremely British, I had minted pea soup and some vege substitute for fried fish-fried Turkish cheese. It was like MN state fair cheese curds on steriods. It was amazing. Then we tootled around  St. Paul's sq for awhile and then headed out to Kensington palace. That place was weird. Since it is still used by royals, Prince William and family live there, we had access to only a portion of the palace.  Most of it was empty rooms with cutouts...but I did learn about Queen Victoria. We walked through Kensington gardens and then landed at a pub near "home", the Hour Glass. It was a typical British pub (Did you know pub stands for public house? The things you learn reading pub walls). I had two glasses of cyder and Toad in the Hole. Sausages in Yorkshire pudding with gravy, mashed potatoes and carrots. Home cooking in a neighborhood pub, who said English food is bad? 

Interesting Mews of the day

Today I hobbled around London. Just when I thought my feet were toast, I get to a whole new level of sore. The soul is willing, but the flesh is weak. Speaking of biblical quotes, the first place we landed was Westminster Abbey. We spent a very long time lingering and listening to various tours. So many famous dead people in very artistic tombs. Some had special meaning because I am fascinated by Henry VIII and his wives and daughters-two daughters and his son were buried there. Plus Chaucer, Handel, Blake, the list goes on. The best part about the tour? We had access to the gardens, which doesn't happen everyday. I have some cool pics of Big Ben from the garden, also something you don't see every day. Next we walked down to the palace...yawn...but in my desperate, hopping on one leg quest to find a loo, we found the royal mews. Not only was the bathroom exceptionally well crafted, but we got to see the royal stables,  meet a few horses and see the royal carriages. It took every fiber in my being not to sing loudly and proudly...Bibbity Bobbity Boo (Cinderella, for those of you less adept at Disney). They had the carriage Princess Diana rode in, which has held other royal brides too. I heard on the news this morning thst the Queen may be riding in that carriage today, to open parliment.  I  remember seeing it on TV and thinking Princess Di looked so beautiful and Prince Charles looked like he should have been pulling it.  We also saw them bring in a smaller carriage on a pratice run. Finally we watched the stable girl muck out the royal road apples. At the exit we saw a very, very old riding school. What a nice surprise, we got the whole mews and nothing but the mews...Next we rode the bus to Harrods.  Holy Smokey,  talk about pounds and pounds of smoked, salted, jerked meat. Bacon and other sophisticated meats lined up in delicious rows, nestled nicely together in little glass cases. Their food court puts Whole Foods to shame. I could live there. Earlier today we decided to forego supper and experience high tea. We had amazing scones, with the traditional clotted cream and jam, British sweets and finger sandwiches. Over the top Ostentatious with a capital O. I don't think I will ever experience something like Harrods,  ever again.

More pis

Lunch at the Tower and Southwark update.

Bloody good fun

Today was a bloody good time! It started out at the Tower of London, we saw everything there was to see and then some. The crown jewels, Ann Boleyn's crypt, torture devices, and lots of swords, shields and armour.  Next we ate a traditional lunch, I had beef stewed in cornish ale with roasted veg and potatoes. Yvonne had roasted thyme chicken with yorkshire pudding. It was good for tourist food-mine tasted like British chili. Next we went on a Thames river cruise, then over to peak in the window of All Hallows Church. It is as old as London, or so they claim. Then we hopped the tube and went to see the old operating theatre-what an amazing place. It is in the attic of a church and it was barbaric. They had ether masks, body parts in jars, heaps and piles of herbs in attic gables and old surgical instruments.  It was delightfully gruesome.  Next we hobbled (my feet were getting sore) over to Southwark Cathedral, where John Harvard, Shakespeare and Chaucer were known to hang. Best part, impromptu prayers by a long haired vicar and the sanctuary cat. I didn't see her, but her bowl was by the baptismal fount. How apropos,  water bowl next to baptismal water- I wonder if the cat sneaks up on the bowl at night to lap the water, just like my cat laps out of the sink (or worse yet, the toilet). Then we wandered down the street to see a replica of Sir Francis Drake's ship and wound up in a 300 year old pub. I had a glass of cyder, and we drank to poor service and tourism. We rounded out the night with burgers, I had a falafel burger with chips, i.e. fries. Overall a well spent day.

Finding my muse at the British Museum

We only had one agenda item today, the British museum. Amazing. This morning started slowly, as I was worried about getting the nickname slave driver, aka travel nazi....I am in London, I don't want to waste one minute. So we didn't get started until after 9, and we walked to a different tube line, Sloane sq (as opposed to South Kensington). This area is very swanky,  we passed by Tiffany and Co., Chanel, etc...However, we also passed by a McDonalds,  so that kept it real. We arrived without hassle to the Museum, and wove our way around hundreds of tourists to the Rosetta stone. We were transported back in time surrounded by tons of carved stone that looked surprisingly like Ramses II. It even smelled like 2, 000 years ago, before the invention of deodorant.  Who knew this was a scatch and sniff exhibit? Once we moved on, it started to smell better and we saw Cleopatra's sarcophagus and mummy. We ended up in the Greek/Italian exhibits, and saw some artifacts from Iran (Biblically related). The older exhibits were kept in old bookcases, reminding me of Stanley Livingston. Crazy stuff those Brits stole... err... I mean legitimately acquired through careful archeologist excavation. Then we ate lunch in the museum restaurant-we spent about $60 for mini diet cokes, a salmon salad and prawn noodle salad, with 2 hunks of bread. Yep, blew the wad for the day on produce! On the way home we had to MacGyver the tube due to a body on the line. A British friend told me this is a new way for people to end themselves,  and it happens quite frequently.  Sad. We ended the day getting Japanese takeaway for £11.50 and hung out in the flat.

British Library, et al

We went to all kinds of places yesterday, and with each turn it just kept getting better. Our day started off at Portobello road (near Nottinghill) where we walked the entire section of goods for sale. If you could dream it, they had it! There were antiques, clothes, books, food, produce, jewelry, etc. I took a picture of a bakery stand (along with two others) and the shopkeeper was not happy about it. I suppose that is why she wasn't selling anything. I don't think anyone actually took her picture, but she was angry nonetheless. Reminded me of Haymarket in Boston, where they used to throw food at people they didn't like. Next we traveled to Trafalgar square, when it started raining. We hopped into the National Portrait gallery, and I was pleasantly surprised. We saw tons of famous paintings and artists, and it was packed. I guess this weekend is a holiday weekend, so the locals are out en masse. We wandered through a socialist party rally and it started raining again, so we went to a pub. The Sherlock Holmes pub provided Guinness and interesting memorabilia about the detective in a touristy way. Next we popped into St Martins of the Field (too modern for my liking), and then we went to the British Library. What a wonderful place! We saw Shakespeare texts, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and Mendelssohn orginal music docs, DaVinci and Michelangelo manuscripts and Darwin notes. The best thing was the Bible codices and illuminated manuscripts, that was cool, very, very cool. We rounded off the day with the obligatory tourist food, fish and chips AND Irish leek sausages with colcannon (mashed potatoes). I passed out around 9pm. Long day, loads of fun.

pics of Kensington gardens and Peter Pan

Our first day was crazy, we made a mad dash from Heathrow to our apartment (aka flat), and settled in. Then we walked down to Kensington gardens and strolled through the loveliness. We saw dogs playing, ghastly white legs peaking for the first time at the sun and lots of flowers in bloom. We saw the Italian fountains and Peter Pan (just for Caitlyn), we walked past museums, colleges and consulates. Then we settled for the most amazing Lebanese dinner, I had abergine tavine and Yvonne ate a mixed grill. We also had lamb kebbeh and some little baklava type desserts with cappuccinos. For a tea drinking country, their coffee is better than in the states. Despite a sleeping pill, I was awake at 5 am, so the second the lock clicked open at Starbucks, I was here to get my free wifi and americano. I stood in line with a poodle and its human and got great service. Yes, I went against my better judgment and went to a American business, but it is directly across the street and it has wifi, which is how I am writing this. Today is Portobello Sq for old book shopping, then Trafalgar sq, followed by the British library. Thank you Tube. While I am off minding the gap, you have a splendid day!